What dermatologists look for in a moisturiser: the criteria no label can replace

SWISS BUYING GUIDE

Which face cream do dermatologists recommend?

Dermatologists do not primarily recommend a specific face cream but a basic framework of moisturiser and sunscreen. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), the professional body for dermatologists in the United States, states in its guide to choosing anti-ageing skincare that dermatologists agree: sunscreen and moisturiser are the two most effective anti-ageing products you can buy. That sounds unspectacular, but it is at the heart of almost every consultation in practice. Which brand does the job is secondary. What matters is that the cream suits your skin type, contains no unnecessary irritants and that you actually use it every day. An expensive cream that ends up in a drawer after two weeks does less for you than a simple one you apply every morning and evening.

So if you are looking for a name, the honest answer is that there is no single face cream that dermatologists recommend. There is a short list of properties you can check yourself – and it is exactly the list a dermatologist applies when looking at the products on a shelf or at your ingredient list.

What do dermatologists look for in a moisturiser?

Above all, dermatologists look at whether a moisturiser suits your skin type, whether it is free of fragrance, whether it supports the skin barrier with humectants and lipids, and whether the ingredient list is complete. The AAD advises choosing skincare formulated for your own skin type and, if your skin is sensitive, looking for products labelled accordingly. In its tips for dry skin, it names glycerin, hyaluronic acid and jojoba oil, among others, as useful ingredients and recommends products labelled ‘fragrance-free’. Ceramides and niacinamide are also regarded as barrier-friendly building blocks. Sunscreen is part of the recommendation, but as a separate product.

For visible signs of ageing, retinoids are the best-researched option: a review in Clinical Interventions in Aging describes tretinoin as probably the most potent and most widely studied retinoid, but points out irritation such as burning and scaling, which is considerably milder with retinol and retinaldehyde. For niacinamide, a split-face study in Dermatologic Surgery with 50 women found fewer fine lines, pigment spots and red blotches after twelve weeks of 5% niacinamide than on the comparison side. How solid the evidence is for these and other active ingredients is covered in the article on whether anti-wrinkle creams actually work.

If you hold this list up against The Duo of serum and cream, you can check most of the points yourself: fragrance-free, ceramide NP and squalane in the cream, 5% niacinamide in the Duo, and bakuchiol instead of retinol. It does not contain sunscreen, so you need one in addition in the morning. And we do not claim any endorsement by dermatologists for it.

Why do dermatologists rarely recommend specific brands?

Dermatologists rarely recommend specific brands because the same criteria are met by many products across all price ranges, and because the right cream depends on your skin, not on the logo. The AAD states explicitly that effective anti-ageing products come in all price ranges. On top of that, a professional can see your skin, knows your history and knows what you have already tried. A blanket brand recommendation without this information would be of little professional value. If a dermatologist does name a product, it is usually as an example of a category, such as a simple fragrance-free cream, rather than as the only right choice.

Formulas also get revised. A recommendation from five years ago does not automatically apply to today’s ingredient list. Claims printed on the packaging do not replace this judgement either: what ‘dermatologically tested’ really means is a separate question, but it is certainly not a recommendation by dermatologists. The same goes for where you buy. Whether pharmacy skincare is better than drugstore products is also decided by the formula, not by the shelf.

Which packaging claims do dermatologists consider untrustworthy?

The claims dermatologists trust least are those that promise fast and complete rejuvenation. The AAD gives examples such as ‘look ten years younger overnight’ or ‘quickly reduces all signs of ageing’ and calls promises like these too good to be true. The reason lies in the time skin needs. According to the AAD, a moisturiser can plump up fine lines within a few days, but most products take at least six weeks to work, sometimes up to three months. Anything that promises to deal with deep wrinkles much faster is, as a rule, describing the short-term moisturising effect. Five warning signs can be drawn from the AAD’s recommendations:

• Instant or overnight effects that promise more than skin that feels smoother.
• Wording such as ‘all signs of ageing’ instead of one clearly named concern.
• Results promised within a few days, when six weeks to three months is realistic.
• Price presented as proof of quality, even though effective products exist in every price range.
• Routines that call for several anti-ageing products at once, even though that is exactly what can irritate the skin.

What do dermatologists actually advise for dry or mature skin?

For dry skin, dermatologists advise a cream rather than a light lotion, humectants and lipids, and fragrance-free products. In its tips for dry skin, the AAD writes that ointments and creams provide more moisture and are more effective than lotions. For the face, that does not automatically mean heavy or greasy. A good cream for dry skin can sink in easily and still deliver enough lipids to stop your skin feeling tight during the day.

For mature skin, an active ingredient for visible signs of ageing usually comes on top, classically a retinoid. Because retinoids can irritate the skin, starting slowly is the usual advice. The AAD generally recommends beginning with a single anti-ageing product, because several at once can irritate the skin, and irritated skin shows signs of ageing more clearly. If your skin reacts easily, gentler ingredients such as niacinamide or bakuchiol are a common alternative. Which points really matter in a face cream for mature skin, and why topping a product test says little about your skin, is covered in a separate article. Here, one rule of thumb is enough: first a well-tolerated base of cream and sunscreen, then one active ingredient, then at least six weeks of patience before you judge the result.

When should you see a dermatologist instead of buying another cream?

You should see a dermatologist as soon as your skin no longer just looks dry or tired but shows symptoms that go beyond what skincare can address. In its tips for dry skin, the AAD writes that persistent dryness despite good skincare can point to an underlying medical condition. In these situations, an appointment makes more sense than the next cream:

• Redness, burning, visible small blood vessels or bumps on your face that no longer go away. What skincare can do in this case is explained in the article on rosacea skincare.
• Dry, itchy or flaky patches that persist for weeks despite fragrance-free skincare.
• Inflamed spots or lumps that leave scars or dark marks.
• Moles or marks that newly appear, grow, change colour or bleed.
• No visible change after three months of consistent skincare, even though something clearly bothers you.

Until your appointment, less is more: mild, fragrance-free skincare and sunscreen, no new active ingredients and no exfoliation. You can read what a pared-back routine for sensitive skin looks like in a separate article.

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